Day 57-63: Acapulco and El Racho

We’d had lots of adventures since setting foot in Mainland Mexico but not much downtime. Most of our days were filled with a few hours of driving and then a new campsite each nigh. We needed to sit for a while. Specifically, we needed to sit by a pool. Or on the beach. With a fancy drink in hand.


Enter this resort in Acapulco! You guys: it came with a giant pool, a lazy river, and $15 dollar massages on the beach. Chris had to drag me out kicking and screaming at the end of the week.

We also saw iguanas: millions and millions of iguanas. Ben was hooked and promptly went about figuring out how to catch them.

The hotel ran a sea turtle center. Here they have collected seven nests that were buried on the beach overnight. Unfortunately the nests are often inadvertently destroyed by human activities or deliberately poached.

Eggs are collected from the wild nests, reburied in styrofoam coolers, and then incubated before the turtles are released. Ben got to be a turtle rescuer and egg bury-er for a day.

His little babies should make their way into the ocean 45 days from now. Best of luck, little guys, the odds are not in your favor, sadly. (Although significantly better than a wild nest: 1 in 100 survive vs. 1 in 1,000).

The eggs are roughly the size and shape of ping pong balls. Sorry for the bad photos, there were no lights in the building and the single open door wasn’t helping much. 

Hundreds of little baby turtles working toward hatching in the incubation room. These were olive ridley turtles. 

Ben also went to an Italian restaurant where he learned how to make pizza. He refused to wear the puffy chef’s hat, insisting that his ball cap was far cooler. Sigh. Why is a little kid so worried about being cool?

Neighbors: If you wondered why there was shrieking on a daily basis coming from our balcony…well, now you know. These two crazies were in residence.

It was a very much-needed break from the slog of the road. We pretty much ate, slept, and swam every single day. And nothing else. We didn’t even make it into downtown Acapulco to see the famous cliff divers.

Each night after the kids were asleep, I’d sneak down to the market and buy dessert, which we’d consume in bed while watching a movie. That’s about as exciting as we get these days, people. Heaven.

After a delightful time at the hotel it was once again time to pack up and continue our journey south. We spent the night with a local Mixtec family at their farm in Oaxaca. 

Breakfast on the porch.

The ranch was rustic: no electricity and a fire for warmth at night. Also, the chickens really wanted to keep us company.



We’d planned a horseback riding trip for the kids as a big surprise. Unfortunately, we had a little miscommunication on the specifics. I’d pictured us picking our way along mountain trails or galloping down the road, plunging after our mounted guide.

It was not to be. Our two guides arrived with two horses (for six people), hoisted us aboard, and proceeded to lead the horses down the main road for an hour. Hey look, here come the gringos having an authentic small village experience.

Our guides seemed delighted; we were posed for innumerable selfies and I have no double we’ll end up displayed on their AirBNB page (look! We offer horseback rides! Come stay with us!) but the whole experience left us feeling ever-so-slightly disgruntled.

Chris eventually decided to walk as the saddle was not made for two; Ben was delighted to be solo atop his mount. Emma immediately proposed that I should also bail from our shared stead.

Success! Mom was successfully ejected from the saddle.

Despite the horse debacle, our hosts were lovely and clearly proud of their farm. The dinner they provided was delicious and we felt incredibly welcomed into their home. It was indeed a beautiful patch of land in a stunningly gorgeous part of the  country. As for the horses, we’ll have a good chuckle over that misadventure someday. 

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